Today we look at the electrical outlet for the kitchen stove, as well as being the correct connection of the electrical boards with their hands. Appliances and especially stoves consume significant amounts of electricity, which requires mandatory grounding body. Components domestic stoves when selling often represents connectors RSH-VSH — a pair of electric sockets and plugs. This type of connector has been created in the Soviet times. As a method for mounting sockets it relates to products exposed wiring, but in our time, and we modified flush. Constructive solution pairs eliminates the possibility of incorrect connection when using. The maximum stated operating current — 32 amps (average power 7 kW). However, the total power of the heating devices of modern Cooktop averages 8-10 kW and higher, that this connector is unacceptable. Simultaneous operation of all devices serve fatal outcome connector. Today, the production of RSH-VS Ukraine, Price and product quality are not high. outlet cooker Pretty good pair of plugs, sockets manufactured in Belarus. They have a modern design and are more suitable for import of electric cookers, kit to which the cords and plugs are not included. Belarusian connectors Belarusian connectors withstand large amounts of electrical power, than 32A, user-friendly and the installation. Mounted in the two embodiments, for hidden, and for open wiring. For the price a bit expensive Ukrainian, but much cheaper than European. Connector French sample for electric sockets are installed in the same, as a common outlet. When installing flush hollow recess in the wall, into which installed with a special solution based on gypsum-box of any shape Escutcheon. Towards podrazetniku wall Hollow Stroebe and it laid supply lines, attaching them to the terminals of the socket. It is important to connect the ground wire to the terminal strictly with the designation. Then socket mechanism mounted in a special screws Escutcheon, in shutdown puts the lid. Mounting wiring accompanied with open fastening mechanism socket directly to the support surface of a wall without additional Escutcheon. Necessarily connect the ground wire. The apartments are newly built ground wire is visible at once, its isolation green (yellow-green) colors. In the old houses all the wires and monophonic, usually, white. To find the correct wire, first in an apartment completely cut off electricity. Then take ohmmeter and one of its probe cling or heating radiator for a water pipe, and the second touch turns all power supply cables. If the grounding wire, show little resistance ohmmeter, not more than a couple dozen ohms, resistance to other wires would be infinitely stronger. In this way, detected ground wire marker or tape is marked for further simplicity in contrast. How to connect the remaining wires is not important. See the article about the new and old methods of connecting electric wires, It will be useful for all. Now consider how the electrical connection scheme looks plates in Examples and Photos description. To connect the electric stove will need:

1. connectors. In the presence of the socket, requires only the corresponding plug.
2. Skein of wires PVA 3*4 mm² . Flexible, three-wire, length 1,5-2 m.

On the back panel under a plastic cover plate electrical terminals located, having several copper jumpers. opening the lid, can be seen next to it a picture, usually depicted 3 connection options:

1. three-phase mains — L1, L2, L3.N.PE.
2. two-phase mains — L1, L2.N1, N2.PE.
3. single-phase mains — L1.N.PE.

A suitable embodiment — third, we it will be able to connect electric stove correctly. The jumpers are installed in accordance with figure. Then the wire on both sides of the PVA is removed in the top shell 75 mm and the insulation from the ends of the veins on 30 mm, close up of ring. Lived insulated green ground connector is attached to the PE, remaining alternately to terminals L1 and N (Phase and zero). It is preferable to attach the wires to the phase conductors insulated with brown or white, and zero for blue, but it is not critical. Stripping and wiring the electrical boards. After joins the electrical plug. The wire with green insulation is attached to the earth terminal, the rest — to the phase and zero. Wiring plan, plug sockets and appliance terminals. Multimeter checked correctly connected: grounding contact resistance between the plug and the metallic furnace casing shown zero. Granted a coincidence grounding plug and socket. If everything is as it should be, terminals capped. See how to install the correct socket. It is recommended to remove the power socket, before inserting the plug into it, disabling automatic in the switchbox. By doing so, checked by touching the display surface of the metal housing screwdriver no phase plate. If the order, carried out further checks in all operating modes. Kitchen electric range to some extent stationary device, because over the years it does not move from one and the same place. And in fact, there is an option to connect it without the socket. He is represented in the figure below. Electric plate is connected via a ceramic terminal block or karbolitovy, located in the junction box. Wiring through karbolitovy electric plate or a ceramic terminal block. If there is a three-phase power line to connect the electric stove is best for her. This is necessary especially at high loads on the slab, such as cozy restaurants in small total power device is much higher 10 kW, that a single-phase plug can not afford long stand. Three-phase connector RSH-HS is designed for maximum current at 25A and allows the device to be powered power 15 kW. And to be quite a copper cable with a cross section 2,5 mm². To calculate the required wire size, use our free online calculator. Wiring diagram for appliance to a three-phase power line.
Home » Blog » How to Install an Electric Cooker Safely Electric cookers can be a bit confusing when it comes to whether you can install them yourself. On the one hand, they should always be on their own circuit with a breaker or fuse dedicated to them, which would imply that only a qualified electrician should be handling it since your fuse box is most certainly something not to mess with if you don’t have the appropriate skills and qualifications. On the other hand, some electric cookers come with a regular plug that will go straight into a standard wall socket, which would suggest anyone who can plug in a lamp should be able to install the cooker. Well, both of these things are correct. It all comes down to the cooker.

Cookers Rated Under 3kW

Electric cookers have a kW rating that tells you how much power they use. For cookers under 3kW, it is perfectly acceptable to power them using a regular 13-amp plug and socket. In most cases (but not all, every home is different), this should mean any plug socket is fair game. That being said, even if the cooker is rated low enough to connect to a regular plug socket, it is still going to be one of the biggest appliances in your home, electrically speaking, so it is still recommended to have it on a dedicated circuit, and that requires a professionally trained and qualified electrician.

Cookers Rated Over 3kW

For larger cookers with more advanced features and higher-powered cooking options, you will almost certainly be looking at an oven that is rated over 3kW, and that makes them unsuitable for a standard 13-amp wall socket. Cookers like this must be hardwired into your home’s electrical network and must have their own dedicated breaker or fuse to isolate them. This is where your qualified electricians come in. In the UK, there are laws governing what you can and can’t do with the electrical systems in your house without professional oversight. Minor tasks—like changing a light switch or moving a wall socket a small distance—can be carried out without the need for a qualified electrician or for the local council to be notified. However, the more substantial work—like installing an over-3kW cooker—is what is known as notifiable work, and must be signed off by a certified electrician.

Can I Wire it Myself?

Technically speaking, yes you can. The law does not state that a certified electrician has to carry out notifiable electrical work, only that a certified electrician needs to sign off on the work being up to all the relevant standards. This means that you could do the work yourself and then get a certified electrician to check it over and do the necessary paperwork… in theory. In practice, you may find this a little difficult to achieve. What you need to remember is that the certified electrician who signs off on your work is putting their livelihood on the line. If any legal trouble were to arise because you have carried out work to a poor standard, or not used the correct wiring or fixtures, it would be the electrician who signed that work off as good that would get into trouble. For this reason, you may struggle to find an electrician prepared to certify your work if they cannot see everything you have done. That includes any wiring that may be concealed behind walls or kitchen cabinets. If you decide to do the work yourself and get it certified, it will probably save you a headache if you get in touch with an electrician before starting the work. Not only will this allow you to make sure you can find an electrician prepared to do the certification, but it will also allow you to ask them what they will want to see when they inspect your work. This should help you avoid having to rip cabinets out or redo any other work you have done in order to give the electrician access to what they need. Of course, if you are installing one of the aforementioned under 3kW cookers, you don’t need to worry about the hard-wiring part (though it is still recommended to have the cooker on a dedicated circuit) as the most involved electrical work would be installing a regular plug to the cooker… and many cookers even come with the plug already installed!

Cut Off/Isolation Switch

The additional requirements for cooker-related electrical installations are, of course, largely based on safety. If something were to go wrong with a cooker, it could cause a lot of damage to your property, your health, and, of course, your meal. If your cooker develops a fault where it will not turn off, or if something goes awry inside and an electrical fire starts, you will need to kill the power to the cooker immediately. If you can easily get to your fuse box and you know which fuse or breaker your cooker is on, that will of course be sufficient to stop the power to your cooker, but it is rarely the most practical method. Fortunately, we have isolator switches for this very reason. Your isolator switch is essentially a regular switch like the ones you use to control your lights, but instead of controlling your lights, it cuts the power to your oven. This switch will typically be not too far from the oven and gives you a convenient way of cutting the power to your cooker, suitable in the event of an emergency, or just for maintenance work or cleaning. The law on isolation switches is a little fuzzy in the UK. It is not technically a legal requirement to have such a switch, however, it is a legal requirement that the manufacturer’s instructions be followed, and most electric cooker instructions will state that an isolation switch should be installed. Of course, regardless of whether you are legally required to install an isolation switch, it should be considered a common-sense addition to your electric cooker setup.

The Non-Electrical Side of Cooker Installation

Safely installing a cooker is about more than just managing to install electric cooker wiring correctly, of course. You will also need to make sure the cooker is physically safe in the location you intend to put it. If your cooker is freestanding, this is a relatively straightforward task. As long as the floor underneath the cooker is strong enough and the cooker is on even footing, you should be fine. You will want to make sure the cooker cannot move around, especially if it has a gas attachment for the hobs, but other than that, you should be good to go. If your cooker is fitted, you will need to make sure it is properly secured, and that the cabinetry around it is also properly installed. Fitted cookers are rarely the heaviest appliance in your home, but they are still heavy enough to cause some damage to property and person if they were to come crashing down out of the hole they were supposed to be secured in. Other things to consider here include lifting things properly. If you are moving a large free-standing range cooker, you should treat it as a two-person job, being sure to lift with your knees to avoid damaging your back. Trying to lift it yourself could result in injury, and shuffling it along the floor could damage your floor. This is less of a concern for smaller, lighter fitted cookers, but you will know your own limitations. If you are struggling to lift the cooker, get help, don’t injure yourself by trying to do too much.

Gas Connections

Many free-standing electric cookers have gas hobs. Now, it should go without saying that any gas connections will need to be taken care of by a registered gas safe plumber. It is illegal to start messing with gas pipes yourself (unless you are qualified) but beyond that, the risks are simply too great. Leaking gas could cause breathing problems and, of course, explosions. The exception to this rule is if you are temporarily removing an already professionally installed cooker that has a bayonet fitting. These fittings are self-sealing and simply twist and pull out. They are designed to allow unqualified persons to temporarily disconnect their cooker for things like cleaning, but anything beyond disconnecting or reconnecting that bayonet fitting will need a qualified professional.

Hire A Professional

The amount of professional help required to safely install an electric cooker is largely down to the type of cooker. A large free-standing cooker with all the trimmings and a gas hob will need both the help of a qualified electrician and a gas-safe plumber. On the other hand, a small fitted oven that is rated under 3kW and has no gas components can be fitted entirely by you with no professional help needed. That being said, if you are at all unsure about the process, don’t hesitate to get help. It is far better to be safe than sorry when dealing with large electrical appliances. Get a quote from an expert today!

You May Also Like…

Our Electrician can install it for you!

My Trusted Expert Guarantee Experts Have Been Vetted & Certified Overall Rating: Based on 1224 reviews Guidance on installing and wiring an electric cooker. How to wire the cooker using a double pole switch and get your cooker connected safely. This project will apply to all kinds of electric cookers, even for connecting range cookers. The electric cooker is pretty much the staple ingredient in most kitchens and whether it’s a standard domestic cooker or something a little more industrial in a commercial kitchen, if you find yourself without it, you’re absoluteley stuffed! If your old faithful electric cooker has finally given up the ghost and you’re looking at potential replacements and the cost of not only buying a new cooker but getting it installed, you may be thinking; That’s fine, I’ll just install it myself! Before you do go down the DIY install route, there are quite a few things to consider first. Warning: To complete electrical works you must comply with Electrical Regulations – Click here for more information.

How Should an Electric Cooker be Installed?

Installing or fitting an electric cooker must be done on its own circuit. An electric cooker cannot be spurred of any other circuit and must be controlled by its own fuse at the consumer unit. For this reason, if this is a new installation e.g. you’re not connecting into an existing supply, it counts as installing a new circuit and is forbidden by anyone other than a Part P qualified electrician. Please see our project on part P if you do not understand this. Connecting the cooker cable to the mains supply is the last part of this project. When connecting a cooker or working on any electrical circuit, the appropriate fuse in the fuse box or consumer unit should be withdrawn or turned off before you do anything. You should also turn the power off at the cooker control unit (if it has a switch). This is the connection point that the cooker connects to the mains supply – more on this below.

What Type of Circuit does an Electric Cooker use?

As we have stated, an electric cooker must be on its own circuit! For this to happen, a cable of the correct size runs from the consumer unit to a cooker control unit (more on this below) and then another correctly sized cable runs to the cooker. Due to the current the cooker itself needs to draw the cable is not run back to the consumer unit as in a ring main circuit. As the cable doesn’t run back to the consumer unit or fuse board and effectively ends at the point it connects to the cooker, this is classed as a radial circuit. So in answer, an electric cooker runs on a radial circuit.

What Type of Switch, Cable and Fuse/MCB is Needed for a Cooker?

As we have mentioned above, electric cookers draw huge amounts of current because of the heat they need to produce for cooking etc. To cope with the demand for current required by the cooker, a larger fuse or MCB is required as is thicker cable and a double pole isolating switch. If the fuse or MCB that’s used isn’t large enough to cope with the current drawn by the electric cooker it will simply trip as soon as it’s used. On the other hand, if the fuse or MCB that’s used is too big, then in the event of any problems it may not trip or blow at the correct time. Likewise if the cable that’s used is not large enough to supply the cooker it can easily heat up and catch fire! The actual size of cable required can vary and is directly related to the power of the individual cooker you’re working with (See our table on cable sizes and check the power rating of your cooker in the manufacturers instruction manual). In 99% of cases 6mm T&E (twin and earth) cable and a 32amp fuse or MCB should be sufficient, but as said, what’s actually required is down to the individual appliance you’re working on, so you need to check and make sure that the circuit you’re installing or the existing circuit is up to the job! So, as you can see, using the correct cable and fuse/MCB for your appliance is absolutely essential. In terms of the switch that’s used, this is also equally as important as the above. All electric cookers must be installed using a double pole switch! With a standard switch installed on a circuit, when it’s turned off it interrupts the live wire of the circuit – the switch breaks the connection in the live wire. With a double pole switch the connection to the live and the neutral is broken so there is no fear of any residual current causing a shock when the switch is off.

Cooker Control Unit

The cooker must be connected to a cooker control unit (as seen in the image below). It must be connected via the correct size cable that in turn, is connected to the correct size fuse or MCB in your consumer unit or fuse box. » alt=»Cooker control switch» width=»150″ /> Cooker control switch featuring a 13amp standard plug socket The cooker control unit fits into a standard patress box, just like a socket outlet or switch and may be flush or surface mounted. Some cooker control units offer simple switching facilities but others include a standard socket. If a 13amp socket is included in the cooker control unit, an additional demand of 5 amps is placed on the circuit and your cable and switches must reflect this increase. Cooker control units are also generally fitted with neon lights to signify that the unit and/or switch is turned on or off and to confirm if there is current reaching the connected appliance. One point to note is that your electric cooker should be installed within 2 metres of the cooker control unit, however due to the obvious heat generated by the cooker, it should never be installed above it, it should be places slightly to the side.

What Different Types of Electric Cooker are There?

If you’re new to DIY and appliance fitting you may be thinking; Isn’t an electric cooker just an electric cooker? In answer, not quite, there are in fact three main different types of electric cooker:

• Freestanding electric cookers
• Built-in electric cookers
• Built under electric cookers

The main differences between each of the cooker types listed above is how and where they are installed.

Freestanding Electric Cookers

As the name may suggest, this type of cooker is essentially a self contained unit and normally features an oven at the base, with three or four hobs above the oven. Freestanding cookers are normally around 600mm in width and are installed in a standard unit-width gap between other kitchen units or at the end of a run of units. Free standing electric cooker One thing to note is that occasionally, freestanding cookers are secured to the walls surface behind them via a chain. This is to prevent them from toppling over if they are pulled forwards. This securing chain is a required safety device for gas freestanding cookers to prevent the cooker itself from falling forwards and ripping the gas pipe off of the wall, but can occasionally also be fitted to electric freestanding cookers.

Built-in Electric Cookers

The built-in (or eye-level) electric cooker is normally fitted inside a standard kitchen unit carcass at around 720mm from floor level, hence the alternate name of an eye-level cooker. The height requirements are normally to allow for a cupboard or set of pan drawers to be installed beneath it. As I’m sure you have guessed, the built-in electric cooker does not feature any integrated hobs as they would be too high to use. Instead, separate gas or electric powered hobs are installed in another location in the kitchen. They are also available as either single or double ovens. Built-in electric cooker

Built Under Electric Cookers

Similarly to the built-in cooker, the built under cooker is installed within a standard kitchen unit carcass, but instead of being fitted at eye-level, it’s installed under a kitchen worktop. When looking to purchase a build under oven it’s a very easy mistake to make to confuse a build under oven with a built-in oven, but they are distinctly different in that built-in ovens tend to be around 880-890mm in height whereas built under ovens are only around 720mm in height. As with build-in cookers, build under cookers do not feature an integrated hobs. In most cases a separate gas or electric hob unit is installed above the built under oven to give the appearance that they are a single unit when in fact they are not. Built under electric double oven Regardless of the type of oven you are dealing with the actual process and principles involved in fitting and connecting up an electric cooker should be pretty much the same for each different type.

What if I Have a Gas Oven or Hob, Do I Still Need an Electric Supply?

In short, yes you probably do. Although the main body of the oven or hob may run off of gas, there are other components that will still require electricity to operate. Many modern ovens and cookers are fan assisted, meaning that they have a fan built into the rear of the oven area that can be turned on that then blows the generated hot air around the oven so that it’s evenly distributed and what ever is in the oven is in turn cooked evenly. These fans are more often than not electrically powered. Additionally, most modern ovens have some sort of timing function to enable the oven to be turned off after a set cooking time. This will also probably need an electric supply to operate. In the case of a gas-powered hob, you may think; how can this possibly need a supply of electricity to work? In answer, the hob itself will be fully reliant on gas, but the igniter that sparks to light the gas will in most cases need an electricity supply in order to generate a spark.

Wiring up an Electric Cooker

If you have read through the above in detail you should now be well aware of the rules of fitting an electric cooker and whether you are allowed to do this. For the purposes of this project we are going to be doing a like-for-like swap e.g. an old broken electric cooker for a brand new electric cooker of the same type, in the same location but more efficient and due to this, requires less power to run. As stated above, the principles of removing the old cooker and connecting the new one should be pretty much the same regardless of the type of electric cooker you are dealing with. We also know that the electrics in the property are all in good condition and fully working due to a recent upgrade from an old style fuse board to a new consumer unit.

1. Turn off the Power!

As we have stated a fair few times already, but needs to be said again – before we do anything at all, turn off the power! This means turning the power off at both the cooker control unit and also isolating the circuit directly in the consumer unit or fuse box e.g. turning off the MCB or pulling out the fuse. This provides double protection in that if someone inadvertently turns the power back on at the consumer unit/fuse box, you’re still protected as the cooker control switch is turned off. Power turned off at cooker control unit

2. Remove the old Electric Oven

Before we can actually fir the new oven in place, the old one will need to be removed. If you’re working with a freestanding cooker, then this can in most cases simply be gently pulled forwards until it is free of the recess it’s sitting in. In this case as we are working with a build under cooker, it will first need to be unscrewed so that it can be pulled out. This should also be the case for a built-in oven. Firstly, if there is a plinth installed at the base, pop your fingers up and under and pull this forwards to pull it off. It should simply be clipped to the unit legs so should come off easily. This is just to get it out the way. Plinth below cooker unit to be removed It’s a good idea to have a vacuum handy here as it can be a bit dusty and grimy behind the plinth. Next, open up both the bottom and top oven (if there is one) doors and down each side you should see a screw head some where. These screws are what secures the cooker in place. Use a drill/driver or screwdriver to remove each screw. Removing each retaining screw to enable cooker removal With any and all screws removed, pull the cooker gently forwards and it should start to pull out from the kitchen unit carcass. Pulling old electric cooker out to remove it Don’t pull it all the way out as yet as they can be quite heavy (40kgs or more). Get some help to pull the old electric cooker all the way out, but just before it comes all the way out, drop it down so that the front bottom edge rests on the floor. This will allow you to see exactly what’s going on behind the cooker in terms of how much length you have on the cable connecting it to the cooker control unit. There should be more than enough if the person who installed the old cooker did this correctly. Pull old cooker forwards until you can see the cable Once you’ve confirmed all is well and you have enough slack on the cable, pull the old cooker out and place it to one side out of the way

3. Measure to Check new Oven Fits

Before popping the new cooker into place for a test fit, it’s a good idea to have a quick measure up just to make sure that your new cooker will indeed fit. In this case as there was a gas hob installed above the old cooker, the gas feed pipe for the hob needed to be considered in terms of the new cooker. We measured up the old cooker in terms of the slope at the rear that’s designed to allow for gas pipes and other potential items and how this compared to the new cooker. Fortunately, the new cooker was slightly shorter in terms of depth than the old one, which meant that the slope was pushed forwards that bit more. This meant that there was plenty of room for the gas pipe Measure installation space and old cooker to make sure new cooker fits Note: If you find that your new electric cooker, once fitted, fouls any gas pipes as it’s a slightly different size or shape to the old one DO NOT attempt to adjust this yourself in any way. You will need to contact a Gas Safe registered engineer to move the pipe for you

4. Disconnect the Cable to the old Oven

Before attempting this, just make sure again that the power is totally off to the old cooker! Follow the cable to the rear of the old cooker to the location that it’s connected. Depending on manufacturer and type of cooker this may vary, but essentially the cable will be connected to some type of terminal. In this case it was behind a metal plate. We removed the screw holding the plate in place to reveal the connection terminal behind it. Remove the terminal cover plate to reveal the connection terminal Once the connection terminal had been exposed, we could then go ahead and disconnect it. Using a screwdriver, we loosened the live, neutral and earth terminals and then prised the cable free of the terminal. Loosen the live, neutral and earth terminals and remove the electrical supply cable

5. Have a Good Clean up

With everything now out of the way it’s a great idea to have a good clean up. Things can get pretty dirty behind cookers as they are rarely moved. Vacuum up and dust and debris and then give everything a good clean using some suitable multisurface cleaner. Have a good clean up after removing and disconnecting the old cooker

6. Test Fit new Oven

Before we even think about connecting anything up, it’s important to test fit the new cooker in place, just to make sure all is well and good. Using a second pair of hands to assist, gently lift the new cooker in to place and then gently slide it back into the kitchen unit housing. If all is well and good, the new cooker should slide in fairly easily. If not you will need to pull it back out and inspect it to find out why. Tip: To allow the new cooker to slide in a little easier, squirt some furniture polish on the base and around the sides of the interior of the kitchen unit carcass. Position the new cooker in place to make sure that it fits In this case, once fitted we found that the new cooker was 5mm taller than the old one, meaning it did not slide under the worktop. To cure this, we pulled it back out and then dropped the unit down just over 5mm by replacing some of the packers that were in place under the unit feet. make any fine adjustments to the kitchen unit so that the new cooker fits as it should

7. Connect up new Electric Cooker

Now that we know that the new cooker will fit into the unit recess as it should do, before we can actually fit it in place, the final job is to connect the electrical supply cable to the terminal on the rear of the new cooker. In the case of our supply cable, it was fairly old so was still using the old style wire colours as opposed to the new. This is fine as long as it’s been tested and confirmed to still be fit for purpose. As it had been tested after the new consumer unit install a few months previous we knew this was the case and could go ahead and connect it up. If however you are in any doubt that it may not be, get it checked by a qualified electrician. To get the new cooker connected up if you are dealing cables still on the old wire colour scheme, it’s just a case of matching each cable to the correct terminal. Old Wire Colours

• Red = Live
• Black = Neutral
• Yellow and Green = Earth

If however you are dealing with wires using the new wire colour scheme, they are as follows (more information on wire colours can be found in our project here): New Wire Colours

• Brown = Live
• Blue = Neutral
• Yellow and Green = Earth

In most cases there will be some kind over cover over the terminals to protect them and prevent shocks and anything from touching the live terminal. Remove this for now. With the terminals exposed, we used a screwdriver to loosen each one and then connected the red to the “L” terminal, the black to the “N” terminal and the yellow and green to the “E” terminal. The protective cover was then refitted to hide and protect everything. Just to make sure all was well, the power was then turned back on to make sure the cooker fired up. Once confirmed, the power was once more turned off. Turn on the power to test the oven turns on as it should

8. Install new Oven

Now that the electrical supply cable is connected up correctly and we have tested that the oven turns on as it should do, it’s time to get it fixed in place. Position the cooker with the rear bottom edge resting on the base of the unit and then lift the front edge (with help if needed) and slide it backwards into the unit carcass, applying some gentle pressure. Once in place, ensure the sides of the cooker are flush with the edge of the carcass so that it can be screwed in place. Once flush, use a drill/driver to screw a screw into each fixing point. Once fully in place, screw in screws to the fixing points to hold the cooker securely

9. Remove all Packaging and Turn it on

Once fixed properly in place, the last job is to remove any and all packaging from the front of the electric cooker and also more importantly, anything from the inside. Once all gone, you can then safely turn the power back on and fire it up to make sure it works as it should do. Before use, make sure you remove any and all packaging from the cooker Replacing and connecting up an electric cooker is a fairly simple job as long as everything is in place to allow for a straight swap. If, however, there is an doubt, you should always get a professional electrician in to do the work for you. New electric cooker successfully installed All project content written and produced by , founder of DIY Doctor and industry expert in building technology.

• How to clean parquet floors
• How to care for a draft horse
• How to auction in monopoly
• How to manage autoarchive in outlook 2010
• How to work your lower chest